Ubud’s Rice Fields: My Walk Into Bali’s Heart

Let me paint you a picture: it’s 5:30 am, the world is still asleep, and I’m clutching a cup of coffee like it’s a golden ticket to survival. The sun isn’t even up yet, and here I am, willingly (yes, willingly!) about to embark on a pre-dawn adventure. What madness is this? It’s the kind of madness you’ll only find in Ubud’s Rice Fields. And let me tell you, it’s worth every bleary-eyed step.

Ubud’s Rice Fields: My Walk Into Bali’s Heart

My mission: to conquer the Campuhan Ridge Walk and the Kajeng Rice Fields before breakfast. It’s no small task, but as the first light of dawn crept over the horizon, transforming the sky into a masterpiece of oranges and pinks, I knew we’d made the right call. There’s something magical about walking through Bali at this hour. The streets are quiet, the air is cool, and for once, you feel like you’ve stumbled into a secret world—one that hasn’t yet been taken over by the day’s hustle and bustle.

And oh, the sounds! Roosters crowing like they’re auditioning for the lead role in Bali: The Musical. Insects buzzing like a well-rehearsed percussion section. Birds chirping as if to say, “Good morning, we’re fabulous.” Somewhere in the distance, the faint echo of a gamelan orchestra practising floated through the air, tying it all together like a symphony. This wasn’t just a walk; it was a front-row seat to Bali’s greatest show, performed exclusively for those obsessed enough to wake up at dawn.

The Story of the Campuhan Ridge and Kejang Walks

Now, let’s talk about the trails themselves. The Campuhan Ridge Walk and Kajeng Rice Fields aren’t just places to stretch your legs and burn off yesterday’s nasi goreng. They’re windows into Bali’s past, present, and—if we’re lucky—future. These trails take you through landscapes shaped by centuries of rice farming, where every field is a work of art, every stream is a lifeline, and every bend in the path feels like a love letter to nature.

But these paths also tell a story of contrast. On one side, you have pristine rice paddies that seem to stretch into eternity, a green so vibrant it almost hurts your eyes. On the other, villas and cafes creep closer with every passing year, encroaching on the serenity that drew tourists here in the first place. It’s a delicate balance, one that the locals navigate with a grace that’s nothing short of inspiring.

The heart of these trails lies in their subak system—an ancient irrigation method that’s as spiritual as it is practical. Recognised by UNESCO, subak embodies the Balinese philosophy of harmony. It’s not just about watering crops; it’s about connecting people to the land, to each other, and to the divine. Walking these trails, you can feel that connection. It’s in the air, in the soil, in the very rhythm of the water as it flows through the channels.

Here are all your hotel options in Ubud.

Starting Your Journey: Jalan Raya Ubud

This adventure began at Jalan Raya Ubud, a street that’s usually the stage for Bali’s most chaotic show. Picture scooters zipping in every direction, horns blaring like a symphony in disarray, and wide-eyed tourists clutching Google Maps as if their lives depend on it. But at 6:00 am? Silence. Sweet, glorious silence. It was like someone hit the mute button on Ubud’s bustling soundtrack. The only sounds were the gentle rustling of leaves, the distant crow of a rooster, and my own footsteps echoing in the stillness.

Walking down this tree-lined road at dawn felt almost sneaky, like I’d stumbled into a secret version of Ubud that only reveals itself to the early risers. The usual suspects—yoga-mat-toting tourists, frantic locals, and the occasional hawker—were nowhere to be seen. I didn’t have to dodge motorbikes or fend off offers of “special price, just for you!” For a brief, golden moment, the road was mine, and mine alone.

As the soft morning light filtered through the trees, casting long shadows across the pavement, I found myself slowing down. There was no need to rush; the world hadn’t quite woken up yet. Even the air felt different—cooler, fresher, almost alive with possibility. I passed a sleepy warung just beginning to stir, its owner sweeping the steps and brewing the day’s first pot of kopi. Somewhere in the distance, the faint aroma of incense wafted through the air, mingling with the scent of damp earth. It was a sensory feast, and I hadn’t even started the trail yet.

Read: Bitten by Curiosity? Visiting Ubud’s Sacred Monkey Forest

A Temple Greeting: Pura Gunung Lebah

At the end of Jalan Raya, I turned a corner and stepped into what felt like another world. Looming before me, like a guardian of the trail, stood Pura Gunung Lebah. This wasn’t just a temple; it was an experience, a portal into Bali’s spiritual heart. With its moss-covered stones, intricately carved gates, and the gentle hum of the Campuhan River below, it was impossible not to feel a sense of awe.

Built in the 8th century, this “Small Hill Temple” is steeped in history and mystery. Locals come here to pray, leaving offerings of flowers, fruit, and incense at its sacred altars. The air seemed to shimmer with devotion, and for a moment, I felt like I was intruding on something ancient and private. But the temple didn’t seem to mind my presence; if anything, it welcomed me with open arms.

I took a moment to pause and absorb my surroundings. The temple’s intricate details were mesmerising—every carving told a story, every stone seemed to hold a secret. The river below added a soothing soundtrack, its gentle flow harmonising with the chirping of birds and the rustling of leaves. It was a sensory overload in the best possible way, a perfect prelude to the adventure ahead.

Here are all your hotel options in Ubud.

The First Steps: Coffee and a Climb

From the temple, the trail began with a brisk uphill climb, and let me tell you, it did not hold back. If you’ve ever questioned your fitness level at 6am, this incline will give you an answer—and probably a cheeky laugh while it’s at it. I’d barely started, and already my calves were staging a rebellion.

Thankfully, I’d come prepared. Armed with a strong cup of kopi (and a stubborn determination not to be outdone by a small hill), I powered through. “It’s just a warm-up,” I told myself, pretending the sweat dripping down my face was a sign of enthusiasm rather than exhaustion.

At the top, the trail opened up into a breathtaking view. The ridge stretched out before me like a green ribbon, flanked by lush jungle on one side and terraced rice fields on the other. I stood there, catching my breath and pretending to admire the scenery (when really, I was just relieved to stop climbing). It was a moment of accomplishment, of pride, and yes, a bit of smugness. I’d conquered a little hill—and I hadn’t even spilled my coffee.

Walking the Ridge: A Meditation in Motion

As the path levelled out, the world seemed to exhale. The ridge was silent, save for the occasional rustle of leaves and the chirping of birds. It was the kind of peace that’s hard to come by, the kind that makes you want to bottle it up and take it home. Take it home to Lynn still tucked away in bed, still sleeping.

Every step felt deliberate, every breath a reminder of how good it feels to be alive. The scenery was almost too perfect, like a painting come to life. To my left, the jungle stretched out in a sea of green, its canopy dotted with small bursts of colour from wildflowers. To my right, the terraced rice fields shimmered in the sunlight, their waters reflecting the sky like tiny mirrors. It was the kind of beauty that made you pause, not just to take a photo, but to take it all in. (Travel Tip: Sometime you see more without a camera)

I’m not one for meditation (my idea of mindfulness is remembering where I put my keys), but something about this walk made me feel deeply connected—to myself, to nature, and to the moment. It was like the ridge had its own magic, its own rhythm, and for a brief, glorious moment, I felt like I was part of it.

The Lone Palm Challenge

Ah, the lone palm tree. Standing tall and proud in the middle of the trail, it’s become something of a legend among walkers. Reaching it felt like crossing a finish line, a moment worthy of celebration. I paused for a photo (Actually about ten minutes of Youtube footage), admired the view, and considered calling it a day. But then, like the overachiever I secretly desire to be, I decided to push on.

“Why stop now?” I asked myself, conveniently forgetting how tired I was. The Kajeng Walk loomed ahead, a longer, wilder trail that promised even more adventure. Fueled by ambition (and the promise of breakfast), I set off with renewed determination. After all, what’s one more walk when you’re already this far in?

Free Bali: A Rare Treasure

Let’s talk about something truly miraculous: the Campuhan Ridge Walk and the Kajeng Walk are free. Yes, free. No tickets, no fees, no hidden charges—just you, the trail, and the kind of natural beauty that makes you feel like you’ve hit the jackpot.

In a land where everything from waterfalls to parking spots comes with a price tag, this trail is a glorious exception. It’s like finding a unicorn in the middle of a crowded marketplace. You don’t have to queue, you don’t have to negotiate, and you certainly don’t have to part with your cash. It’s just you, the path, and the occasional rooster reminding you that some of life’s best experiences really are priceless.

The Kejang Walk: A Journey Into Bali’s Heart

If the Campuhan Ridge Walk is Bali’s serene sunrise stroll, the Kejang Walk is its wilder, more adventurous cousin. Starting where the ridge ends, this trail plunges deeper into the countryside, where nature’s rulebook is written in green and the air feels fresher—though noticeably stickier as the day wears on.

The Kejang Walk begins with a continuation of the ridge’s idyllic vibe, flanked by rolling rice paddies and the ever-present subak irrigation streams whispering alongside you. The path is a bit narrower, and the scenery feels somehow even more intimate, as if you’ve been invited to peek behind the curtain of Bali’s agricultural theatre. Here, life moves at its own pace, with farmers and locals going about their daily routines, often with a friendly wave or a cheerful “Selamat Pagi!” (Good Morning)

As the walk progresses, the terrain starts to shift, and so does the energy. You’ll notice fewer fellow walkers and more birdsong. The landscape becomes less polished, more untamed, and undeniably enchanting. The Kejang Walk isn’t just an extension of the ridge; it’s an immersion into Bali’s soul.

The Path Transforms: Rice Fields to Jungle

About 30 minutes into the Kejang Walk, you’ll notice the path begin to change, like a plot twist in a well-written novel. What starts as a well-trodden track soon gives way to a dirt path, its uneven surface a reminder that this is nature’s domain. And then, almost imperceptibly, the scenery around you shifts. I have walked this path before in the wet season when the subak was overflowing and the dirt trail resembled a cascading stream.

The rice paddies that dominated the first stretch fade into the background, replaced by dense jungle foliage that arches overhead, creating a natural canopy. The sunlight filters through in dappled patterns, casting shadows that dance as the leaves sway in the breeze. It’s quieter here, the hum of civilisation left far behind.

Yet, the subak remains your constant companion. Its gentle, soothing gurgle is like an old friend, reminding you that even in this wild expanse, Bali’s ancient traditions flow uninterrupted. The sound of water moving through the channels is almost hypnotic, a soundtrack that makes each step feel purposeful.

The Northern Edge: Bridges, Hillsides, and Ducks

The northernmost part of the trail is where the Kejang Walk truly flexes its dramatic muscles. As you approach, you’ll come across a small almost unremarkable stone bridge, its surface worn smooth by the passage of time and countless footsteps. Crossing it feels like stepping into a time capsule, a moment of connection to the generations who have walked this way before.

On the other side, the trail climbs sharply, demanding both effort and admiration. As you ascend, the landscape unfurls before you like a cinematic reveal. Vast fields of green stretch to the horizon, their vibrant hues almost too vivid to believe. It’s a view that feels earned, a reward for every step you’ve taken to get here.

At the crest of the hill, you’ll likely spot a lone farmer bent over his work, tending to the rice with a quiet dedication that’s both humbling and inspiring. Here I was, patting myself on the back for being up early, and this man had probably been working since well before sunrise! He straightens up, meets my gaze, and gives a nod. That single experience felt like a moment of shared understanding, a small but profound exchange between two very different lives.

Turning the corner, I was greeted by an unexpected sight: a parade of ducks waddling through the paddies, scavenging for bugs and doing their part to protect the crops. They moved with a purpose that was both amusing and impressive, their fluffy forms adding a touch of whimsy to the scene. Beyond them, yet another panorama of rice fields unfolded, a reminder that Bali’s beauty is layered, endless, and utterly captivating.

The Challenge of the Walk: Hot, Humid, and Humbling

Let’s not sugarcoat it: the Kejang Walk is no stroll in the park. Its also not a highly demanding trek, but in the early morning, the tropical heat can be relentless, and the humidity adds an extra layer of effort to every step. The trail can be muddy after rain, with patches that threaten to swallow your shoes whole if you’re not careful.

But here’s the thing: none of that matters. Every bead of sweat, every slippery patch, and every aching muscle is outweighed by the sheer joy of being out there. There’s a raw, unfiltered sense of being alive that comes with walking these trails. It’s not just exercise; it’s an experience, a connection to something bigger than yourself.

The walk challenges you, but it also rewards you. It makes you notice things you might otherwise overlook—the intricate patterns of the rice terraces, the way the light dances on the water, the symphony of sounds that accompanies you. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the best things in life require a little effort.

From Nature to Noise: Returning to Civilisation

And then, just like that, the magic shifts. The natural connection you’ve spent the last hour nurturing begins to unravel as the sounds of ducks and flowing water are replaced by the faint hum of scooters in the distance. The jungle opens up, and the dirt path gives way to something more polished, more modern.

As you approach Ubud again, the rice field sheds are replaced by sleek villas, and the distant buzz of yoga chants drifts through the air. The transformation is subtle but undeniable, like waking up from a dream and realising you’re back in the real world.

It’s a bittersweet moment, stepping back into civilisation. The peace and simplicity of the trail linger in your mind, a gentle reminder of what you’ve just experienced. But as the cafes and restaurants come into view, promising a well-earned breakfast, you can’t help but smile. After all, the magic of the Kejang Walk stays with you long after you’ve left it behind.

Entrance Fee & Opening Times

The Campuhan Ridge Walk and Kajeng Trails are located in Ubud, Bali. Starting just off Jalan Raya Ubud, they’re easy to find and even easier to fall in love with.

Tickets: Free

Find the Ubud Campuhan Ridge Walk location pin here.

Find the Ubud Kajeng Walk location pin here.

The Best Time to Visit: Beating the Crowds and Heat

Timing is everything when it comes to enjoying the Campuhan Ridge and Kajeng Walks. The best time to visit is undoubtedly early in the morning, ideally around 6:00 am, when the world is still waking up, and Bali hasn’t yet shifted into full tropical gear. At this hour, the air is cool, the light is soft, and the trails feel like they belong to you and a select few other early birds.

Walking at dawn means you’ll avoid the midday heat, which can turn even the most serene walk into a sweaty slog. The ridge’s lack of shade makes it particularly unforgiving under the blazing sun, so starting early isn’t just pleasant—it’s essential. The cool morning air will keep you refreshed as you climb that initial incline, and the soft light creates a golden glow that makes the rice fields shimmer like something out of a dream.

For the full experience, the morning walk wins every time

Another perk of an early start? The crowds haven’t arrived yet. Later in the day, the ridge can become a parade of selfie sticks and tourists shouting, “This way!” to each other in ten different languages. But in the morning, it’s just you, the sounds of nature, and the occasional rooster reminding you who’s boss. The peace is almost meditative, the perfect setting to soak in Bali’s natural beauty without distractions.

If you’re not a morning person, the late afternoon can also be a good time to visit. Aim for around 4:30 pm, when the sun begins to mellow, and the golden hour bathes the landscape in its magical hues. Just be sure to finish your walk before dark—navigating the trail in twilight could lead to an unexpected tumble into a rice paddy (which, while memorable, isn’t ideal).

For those who want the full experience, the morning walk wins every time. Not only do you get the best light and the coolest temperatures, but you’ll also start your day with a sense of accomplishment that makes breakfast taste even better. And trust me, after this walk, you’ll have earned it!

How to Get There: Navigating Your Way to the Campuhan Ridge and Kejang Walks

Getting to the Campuhan Ridge and Kajeng Walks is an adventure in itself, but don’t worry—it’s all part of the Bali experience. Whether you’re arriving from the airport, southern tourist areas, or staying in Ubud, there are plenty of options to get you there with ease.

From Ngurah Rai International Airport

If you’re flying into Bali, the Campuhan Ridge is about 38 kilometres from Ngurah Rai International Airport. Depending on traffic (and Bali’s traffic is famously unpredictable), the journey can take anywhere from 1.5 to 2 hours. A taxi or ride-hailing app like Grab (Bali’s answer to Uber) is your best bet, with fares averaging IDR 250,000 to 400,000 ($25 – $40 AUD). If you prefer more comfort, you can arrange a private driver for the day, which costs around IDR 500,000 to 700,000 ($50 – $70 AUD). This option is great if you’re planning to explore other Ubud attractions after your walk.

We recommend Nyoman Satya (Whatsapp 6281339166267) who has safely driven us on every trip to Bali for the last eight years.

From Southern Tourist Areas

Coming from Seminyak, Kuta, or Nusa Dua? The Campuhan Ridge is about 30 to 40 kilometres away, with a travel time of 1.5 to 2 hours depending on your starting point. Taxis and Grab rides are readily available, with similar costs to the airport journey (around IDR $25 – $40 UD). For the adventurous, renting a motorbike is a fun option. At around IDR 50,000 to 100,000 ($5 – $10 AUD) per day, it’s an affordable way to experience Bali’s winding roads and lush scenery—just be prepared to navigate some chaotic traffic along the way!

From Ubud

If you’re already in Ubud, you’re in luck! The Campuhan Ridge is a short 15-minute walk from the town centre. Simply head to Jalan Raya Ubud and look for the entrance near the Pura Gunung Lebah temple. If you’d rather not walk, shuttle buses run every 15 minutes from various locations in Ubud, and they’re often free or cost just a small fee. Motorbikes are another quick option; you’ll find parking available near the trailhead for a modest fee (usually IDR 5,000 or less). As for the entry to the Kejank Walk, Simple look for Jalan Kajeng.

Getting Around Like a Pro

• Shuttle Bus: Convenient, affordable, and eco-friendly, shuttle buses are perfect for those staying in Ubud. They operate frequently and drop you close to the trail entrance.
• Walking: Nothing beats the simplicity of a good old-fashioned walk, especially when you’re just a short distance away. Plus, it’s the perfect warm-up for the trail ahead.
• Motorbike: Ideal for those who like a bit of wind in their hair, motorbikes are fast, fun, and budget-friendly. Just make sure you’re confident on Bali’s sometimes-chaotic roads.
• Taxi or Grab: For comfort and convenience, a taxi or Grab is your go-to option. Whether you’re coming from far away or just want a stress-free ride, this option lets you sit back and enjoy the journey.

No matter how you get there, the reward at the end—two incredible walks through some of Bali’s most stunning landscapes—makes the trip worthwhile. Pack your walking shoes, a bottle of water, and a sense of adventure, and let the journey begin!

Too Busy? Relax and Do It with a Tour

For those looking to skip the hassle of organising sightseeing around Ubud, full-day tours are a fantastic option. With hotel pick-ups and expert guides, you can enjoy the trails without lifting a finger—except to take photos, of course.

Don’t forget your travel insurance for your Bali trip! You need insurance that covers medical emergencies, theft, delays, cancellations, lost luggage and more with 24/7 worldwide assistance and medical chat: Check out our preferred Insurers below

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